Essence Hires White Fashion Editor; Gets Raised Eyebrows, Tempers
Wednesday, July 28, 2010 at 2:00PM
But will the models, make-up, clothing and fashion shoots still reflect the desires and tastes of Essence's core audience (Re: black women)? I'm going to go with a likely yes despite how the hiring of former O: Home Magazine and Us Weekly editor Ellianna Placas, who happens to be white, looks to people. But in a fashion industry where there is a lack of women of color, both as models and as people behind the scenes, some folks are not happy. They are not happy at all.
It is hard to make it as an African American woman in the fashion industry. It always has been. Just as it is hard to make it in the media or in any industry where you are the token, the lonely only, the rarity or the exception to the mostly white rule. Even in my ten years working in media I was the only black person in every newsroom and office I've worked. So it's not really surprising to me that those who are the most vocal about Essence hiring a white fashion editor are those who have written for Essence, worked for Essence or work in the fashion industry.
They already know what a struggle it is. They know how hard it is to find work. Even if Placas is qualified, they're not going to really care about that. Their concern is going to be about what this means for black women working in the fashion industry what it means for the magazine that has historically been held up as the one open door when all other seemed to be closed.
From AOL Blackvoices:
Essence's mission is to "inspire black women to lead bold, fulfilling lives, " and several readers and former employees, most specifically former fashion editor Michaela Angela Davis, are outwardly upset with with Essence's newest staff choice.
Michaela revealed on her Facebook wall, "It's with a heavy heart I've learned Essence Magazine has engaged a white Fashion Director. I love Essence and I love fashion. I hate this news and this feeling. It hurts, literally. The fashion industry has historically been so hostile to black people–especially women. The 1 seat reserved for black women once held by Susan Taylor, Ionia Dunn-Lee, Harriette Cole(+ me) is now-I can't. It's a dark day for me."
In a perfect world, where all things are fair and just, no one would care about this. And even in this very imperfect world there are still plenty of black women who care more about the content of the magazine, than about the race of the people who produce it. But it's not hard to understand where Davis and others are coming from. Essence Editor-In-Chief Angela Burt-Murray issued this statement about the controversy.
From AOL Blackvoices:
"I understand that this issue has struck an emotional chord with our audience," said Burt-Murray, "however I selected Ellianna, who has been contributing to the magazine on a freelance basis for the last six months, because of her creativity, vision, the positive reader response to her work and her enthusiasm and respect for the audience and our brand. We remain committed to celebrating the unique beauty and style of African-American women in Essence magazine and online at Essence.com."
Online fashion and lifestyle site Clutch Magazine has one of the best articles about Placas being hired. Featuring quotes from Davis, fashion media personality Najwa Moses and writer Joan Morgan, Clutch's Geneva S. Thomas describes the site's own feelings about the hiring.
From Clutch Magazine:
Our immediate reaction? As the publication unofficially deemed “Essence‘s little sister”—a growing young urban women’s online brand for news, critical commentary, lifestyle, fashion and beauty—it felt like our Mom walked us hand in hand to the center of the biggest shopping mall in the state, turned around, and left us. But we are no longer the little girls eyeballing the glossy giant who taught us how to love ourselves. We’ve been finding our way through the life, love and labels for quite sometime now; and the likely abandonment of the counselor who taught us everything we know is now evolving into clearer overstanding. The pressing question for many of us is how much does Time Warner have to do with the hiring.
In the article, Joan Morgan best sums up the sentiment of those who were most upset about the change, critiquing a print media environment that is often difficult for black women to navigate.
From Clutch Magazine:
“This is about the fact that the publishing industry, particularly when it comes to mainstream women’s magazines remains just about as segregated in its hiring practices as it did in 1988.” ... “When these same institutions (naming Conde Nast, Hachette and others) start to employ hiring practices that allow Black publishing professionals the same access to their publications, that’s when I can get all ‘Kumbaya’ about Essence‘s new fashion director.”
As I was working on this post a woman came up to me to ask me my opinion on this and was surprised at my lack of surprise. For her this whole situation seemed unfathomable and hit her as hard as it hit the writers at Clutch and the former Essence staffers. But Essence, like all magazines, is struggling in a tough media environment where revenues are hard to maintain, where there is more competition for the eyes of consumers and where all magazines are struggling to stay alive. Also, Essence is owned by Time Inc. and doesn't exist in some media-based Negro Oasis. Realistically, you can't necessarily begrudge Placas for the job or Essence for hiring her. But you can understand where the frustration comes from.
Full disclosure: I sometimes freelance for Essence.com and have written blog posts for them in the past.
Reader Comments (54)
In a time when we are in the throes of the Great Recession and Blacks are being discriminated against and first to be let go, we need all of our organizations to do their part to hire as many Blacks as possible. White racists often complain that Blacks should have our own businesses and hire our own so that they do not need to give us the “hand out” of affirmative action, so the few businesses that we do have should be dedicated to hiring our own.
Whatever happened to BOOBs (Black Owned &Operated Businesses)?! Seriously, I don't understand why we can't have anything Black. So many things are de facto all white, all asian, etc., but whenever we have something all Black (think about the HBCs), everyone wants to rush in and act like there is something wrong.
@Booga - BOOBs is a new term to me. i'm going to figure out how to use it at least 3 times this week.
Also, if I recall correctly, it was Michaela angela Davis who wrote that her daughter just joined a white sorority (correct me if I'm wrong). I wonder if was pure anger at Essence, or if it was like "it's just one thing after another"
Meh. I'm not really surprised. I find that Essence has been getting less and less substantive through the years. I made the decision to let my subscription lapse last month. Clearly, just in time.
Although public opinion seems overwhelmingly against this hire, I wonder if there's any consolation to know that Ellianna Placas is a Latina.
@ David Wise she is not Latina, she is white, Australian to be specific
I am surprised Angela Burt Murray still has her job, all those faux paus under her reign? Reggie Bush black love cover, find a date in the strip club, Diddy and Kim Porter cover etc
Politicallyincorrect's point about Murray's judgment in general is well taken. But Susan Taylor would have never made this choice primarily because she made every effort to support and nurture black talent from within the company (eg Harriet and Micheala) who could easily have stepped into that role.
For a second there I tried to care, then remembered Essence has NOT been serving the interest of its supposed audience: black women. I mean, just look @ the cover, love me some Ms. Scot's music, but her article had to be one of the stupidest and toxic element that keep us black women down. By the way, Essence is owned by Times Inc, so what's this outrage all about?
its the freaking fashion industry run by gay men who think emancipated women/girls who look like a 12 yrs boy is the most sexually desirable to mainstream society that is facing 60% obesity rate. God, sometimes I wonder if I'm the one going crazy or some of these black "elites' from NAACP and the likes have their priority upside down
@ Hodan the black elite is showing its true colors in 2010 (for those that didn't know how they operate already).
well everyone needs a job i guess
Though I do not view this as entirely out of the realm of possibilities for (historically and presently assumed) Black cultural institutions, I am trying to guard against a reaction that leans more toward apathy. It does matter. I do not subscribe but up until about 3 years ago, I didn't have a problem purchasing an issue right off the stand if it looked interesting enough. I just saw an issue waiting for pick up in my fiance's apartment building lobby a couple of weeks ago and the cover graphics looked strange and...umm...ill just say "not good". In spite of my disinterest, this issue matters.
The points brought up in the the Clutch article are valid. Whether those who believe the "post-racial" hype understand it or not, the playing field is still not level. Issues of representation and control of Black images in media, and the use and control of Black images historically all factor into the feeling of hurt that many feel with this news. It's disorienting a bit. Almost like a direct contradiction to the purpose of the publication. No, this Placas woman does not represent THE WHOLE OF WHITE SUPREMACIST THOUGHT AND A CONSPIRACY TO MANIPULATE BLACK REPRESENTATION AS IN DAYS OF OLD (well, not so much days of old, to be quite honest...) but I can't help but question the level of understanding, empathy, cultural and social awareness that she can bring to this position.
I just have questions and other examples of assumptions that, in essence (pun?), project black people onto a level playing field where it does not exist.
I'm also trying to find clear ways to articulate the problematic nature of these issues. Cuz it WILL come up and the low-hanging fruit of "it shouldn't matter!" will be thrown first...
Checked out Michaela Angela Davis' page, and the hurt, frustration, and anger over there is knee-deep. She tried to pour oil on the water saying that a boycott wasn't necessarily in order.
Actually, I'm a bit amused by the outrage. If Placas has been a contributor for the past 6 months and no one noticed a negative sea-change in the level, or direction, of the fashion, then why would she commit career suicide and call attention to herself now? She should be given a chance to let her work speak for her on the next level. Then we can make noise about it if it sux. Call Angela Burt-Murray and complain then. Is it that we don't think that a non-black woman can do this job? Or is it that we would rather have a black woman do a sucky job in an internationally read publication?
Likely a great many of the folks who subscribe(d) to Essence tend to read O as well. If folk wanted to complain about Essence, maybe they should have been concerned when Time-Warner bought it...?
@David Wise There are Black Latinas descended from African slaves the same way that there are Black Americans descended from African slaves and she is not Black.
Latin is a culture not a race, for example there are White Creoles and Black Creoles in New Orleans. J Lo (Spanish Latina, ancestors from Spain) is to Zoe Saldana (Black Latina ancestors from Africa) as Britney Spears (White American ancestors from Europe) is to Beyonce (Black American ancestors from Africa).
OK, here we go....if we prepare ourselves for the opportunities, we would be considered for the job. Looks like Essence needed to "outsource" the job, as well as hire a qualified person to fill the position. I am not saying there were not people waiting in the wings to fill the position, however this person "hopefully" is being hired based on her talents...funny how diversity works....
As we move away from Affirmative Action (Believe it), we will begin to see less and less opportunity for those who have not prepared themselves to compete in the job market. The money that is provided to programs will be diverted to "First Generation" people who are new to the system, whether it be college funding, business loans, government assistance, etc.
Additionally, if you read the book Workplace 2020 you will see that the jobs of the future will all require creativity, cultivation, or contribution. If you lack the innovative skills necessary to "be necessary", your job WILL be outsources. Not to mention, in the global marketplace the competion is not just here in America, it is with the workers in other nations. By 2016 China will be the largest English speaking country...soon to follow is India.....
As the song says, "if you stay ready...you ain't got to get ready". I say congratulations to the woman who was hired by Essence for her abilities. I am sure she will have her hurdles to jump working in a predominantly AA environment. The shoe is on the other foot. Let's see if she handles it the way "WE" would......
Justice
Justice if we lived in a fair world then what you say would be true. However having witnessed discrimination in hiring from both perspectives in recruiting where I have witnessed managers hire less qualified whites over minorities who were more experienced. Watched Blacks and other minorities paid less than unqualified Whites and Blacks let go before their less qualified White counterparts we as Blacks have to hire Blacks within our own businesses and boycott businesses that wish to exploit us. I prefer to spend my money buying magazines who if their target market is Black women also hire Black women in high level positions. Thusly pressuring these companies to hire Black women which will help to economically empower the Black community as a whole and provide successful role models and mentors for our children. There are many qualified Black women who could have been tapped for this position and to suggest otherwise is disrespectful. We must help, mentor and support one another if we are going to succeed.
Black women write the articles, and they are terrible. They need to overhaul the entire staff.
Maybe no respectable sister wanted her name attached to the mess that is now Essence. I wouldn't.
@Justice this doesn't have anything to with being prepared for opportunities. I don't think that the new Editor's academic or professional credentials are the issue here. Secondly it's downright insulting and RACIST (even if you're Black) to imply that this woman got this job because there weren't any Black women more qualified for this position.
Anyway the outrage is about representation and image. Essence is a magazine that is supposed to cater to Black women right? We have every right to demand that behind the scenes Black women represent us and benefit from our financial support.
I won't go on with my ranting but to say that my subscription to Essence will not be renewed.
I cancelled my subscription last year after the Reggie Bush black love cover. I don't have a relaxer and I don't use ethnic hair care products-so I can't boycott their main advertisers. The only thing I can do is shake my head...it's over. I'm sure this institute will fold within the next couple of years.
Thank God for the internet and new media.
If we are not committed to hiring us, who will? Often Black women are overqualified for their positions and are not promoted or mentored (like others) to advance through their business or corporate environment. This woman was a freelancer for only six months and now she's the fashion editor??? She has some serious support somewhere to advance that quickly. I'm sure she is qualified, but for politically correct reasons and in the interest of its target audience, Essence should have hired a Black woman, period. I too, have been increasingly disappointed with the direction of Essence over the last few years. I believe their marketing slogan back in my Mom's day was "When you miss Essence, you miss you!" Essence is surely missing the point and every one us with this choice to not hire a Black woman in such a key position. This would have NEVER happened with Susan Taylor at the helm of the mag.
LMAO @ the outrage.
@Sheryl: Please "re-read" my original post.
I love the interesting plot twist of this post. If I didn't know the blog was titled "BlackSnob", I would think that the racial twist is a reflective image of what happens when "white" organizations are pressured to begin to look for qualified African Americans. Funny how that works.....
I believe my orginial post stated that there may have been qualified AA women waiting in the wings. I have a background in the fashion industry for a major retailer as an executive. I worked my butt off for seven years trying to climb the ladder while other women did half as much and were given the yellow brick road. When I had the opportunity I started to prod other AA to move forward and take their rightful place at the table. I mentored and helped to elevate 8 AA out of 20 middle managers. I know the journey. However, it was also one of those AA managers who decided to attach herself to the same hand that kept her down in order to keep food on her table. She didn't see herself as a catalyst for the cause. She simply went for self and that begin the spiral down of the entire operation. Sad but true. Now the company is back to square one with NO AA middle managers, and one "recently promoted" AA executive. At the end of the day...."WE did ourselves in, through the lack of commitment from one"....shameful. I left years ago, and have begun mentoring high school AA girls to take their rightful place at the table through higher education. Hopefully cultivating from the root of the community will help us gain a better stronghold and footing in the future. That is not to say that I am not also mentoring other students of color, but I seek out the young AA females to ensure that they have the optimum opportunities for success. Many are first generation college bound students, so they need a beacon of light to guide them.
Why that little ranting matters, is that as a group, we need to continue to mentor, of course. However, we also need to understand that the same programs and handouts that have been afforded us are soon to be the same programs that consume us. We need to understand that our houses will begin to fall if we do not find qualified AND committed people to help guide the younger generation. Obviously there is a break in the chain at Essence, however I think we need to be vigilent and prepare the next person who will take her place if she quits, gets fired, or promoted. That is the strategy we need to worry about. The deal is done, sealed and filed. She was HIRED for the job. She met whatever qualifications they put in front of her and she won. That is the way equallity and equity should work. I don't know what else to say except, she beat out the competition......
is essence an equal oppurtunity employer?
Just like with the Reggie Bush issue, I fail to see why I should be getting my hackles up. I read earlier this week that Bethann Hardison, June Ambrose, and some other well-known black women in the fashion industry were approached about taking the position, but declined. The position was open for six months. To me, that is the more interesting story. Where was the interest for the position?
Respectfully,
The only AA magazine I subscribe to is Black Enterprise. I only do so because one: Mr. Graves married an AA woman and is dedicated family man two: his magazine doesn’t encourage sociopathic behavior under the guise of being modern/trendy/hip and three: his publication focuses on economic and education empowerment.
There is a larger issue here: AA women offering our financial, political, and social support to people who are undeserving of it. Why or why do persist in suicidal behavior? The reading market is flooded with relationship self-help books from folks who are evil and care nothing about the safety and well-being of AA women and children—yet we persist in enriching these people and their non-AA others?
I’ve been inter-culturally married for awhile and have observed the economy of other people. This behavior is VERY abnormal. NOBODY else is doing this but us. Latino periodicals aren’t hiring US many won’t hire whites either. The new employee being Latina doesn’t soften the blow—as if we are all in it together because we are both minorities. I DON’T EVEN THINK SO
Anyone (male or female) Any AA who purchases that magazine deserves whatever nonsense they get! Good luck with that!
Rant over.